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Author: Basement Health Association

BHA Waterproofing Certification Program

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Basement Health Association, certifications.

The Basement Health Association (BHA), formerly known as the National Association of Waterproofing & Structural Repair Contractors (NAWSRC), operates a nationally benchmarked certification program for Certified Egress Window Specialist®, Certified Waterproofing Specialist®, Certified Basement Air Quality Specialist®, and Certified Structural Repair Specialist®. BHA’s certification program is a comprehensive examination of work experience, textbook, and OSHA safety standards designed to qualify members of the profession as leaders of the below grade repair industry. 

To qualify to become certified, contractors must be a member of the waterproofing industry for at least two years and their company must be a member of the association for at least one year.

After qualifying they are tested in various technical areas including safety and ethics. However, the certification process does not stop when they pass the written exam. To maintain their certification, they must obtain 15 hours of continuing education every two years and uphold the ethical standards of the association.

Understanding FEMA Assistance for Homeowners

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Flooding, Homeowner Tips.

The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) is the government relief program for the U.S.  Most people know FEMA as a household name but until your area is hit with a disaster where the damage is so widespread that it is declared a federal disaster (the declaration must come from the governor, a federal agency director or the President); you may not even be aware of the relief programs available.

Once a flood is declared a federal disaster area the government will open FEMA “teleregistration” with a toll-free number for you to call for assistance.  FEMA may also open one or more Disaster Recovery Centers (DRCs).

DRCs will give information and take applications for assistance and are usually located in a nearby school or other public building. They will be open during the day and early evening for several days to give people time to come in. Your local new outlets should report locations and hours. In many cases, floods will destroy uninsured property causing losses and needs.  This creates a gap in coverage even if you have flood insurance. FEMA helps people with or without insurance.  If you don’t have insurance go to the DRC first.  If you do have insurance you should file a Proof of Loss form before visiting a DRC. There are six different types of assistance.

Temporary living assistance

The disaster assistance program may provide a safe place to live while you repair damaged homes. For those without insurance can apply for rent assistance or FEMA may provide mobile homes or other temporary living arrangements. If repairs can be done quickly to make your house liveable, the program may provide funds to make those repairs.

Low Interest Disaster Loans

If home-owners or business owners, farmers and others sustain major real estate and personal property damages, they may be eligible for low interest loans through the Small Business Administration (SBA) and the Farmers Home Administration (FmHA). SBA and FmHA can provide loans even if there is no Presidential disaster declaration.

Like any traditional loan, interest rates and eligibility vary depending on income and financial condition of the applicant.

FEMA Grants

If you don’t get a SBA loan or if you do not have any other financial resource, you can apply for a grant to help with expenses and serious needs. Individual and family grants can cover immediate expenses such as medical treatment, transportation, home repair, replacement of essential personal items, and the cost of protecting your property from the flood.

Income Tax Deductions

If a federal disaster declaration was made, you might quality to file an amended tax return for the past year and get a partial refund for your uninsured casualty losses. Even if no federal declaration is made, you can often deduct your uninsured losses on your next income tax return.

“Floodproofing” Assistance

While restoring a building to its pre-flood condition is important, FEMA is now encouraging repairs and updates to include “floodproofing” to modify the structure to withstand damage from a future flood.   At BHA, our contractor members see thousands of properties a year damaged from major and minor flooding.  There are some homes where the basement floods every year because of the lack of the proper drainage system in the basement and/or the lack of gutters and outside drainage systems around the perimeter of the house.

If you lived through a flood and don’t want to deal with the flood clean-up again, the SBA’s Disaster Assistance Loan program can loan additional money to cover certain floodproofing costs.

Counseling

Another service FEMA provides after a disaster is crisis counseling.  It is important to cope with problems before they get out of hand.  The Red Cross, as a first responder, supplies information to help cope with the mental stress of living through a disaster.

Sump Pumps: The Differences Between Common Pump Models

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Sump Pumps.

There are a lot of sump pump models on the market today. The two main types of sump pumps are submersible and pedestal sump pumps.

Like the name, a submersible pump is designed be submerged in water. The pedestal pump sits in the sump pit, but the motor is not designed to get wet so it sits outside the pit.

It is argued that the submersible pump placed on the bottom of the pit is more stable than the pedestal pump.  With the pedestal pump, the pump is placed on the bottom of the pit but the motor is braced up on the outside of the pit.

Because the motor on a submersible is in the pit it is quieter than the pedestal pump.  However, it is more expensive and if the pump fails it is harder to replace because it is stored deep inside the pit. The submersible pump does handle greater volumes of water and is built to handle solids or particles.

The pedestal pump has a longer lifespan than the submersible pump. They are known to last 2 to 5 times longer and are cheaper than a submersible pump. But they aren’t built to handle particles or solids of any kind. The pedestal style has a hose or pipe that reaches down into the bottom of the pit and sucks up anything in its surroundings to avoid the pump clogging.

The pedestal float switch maintenance is on the outside of the pit so it makes it easier to fix and maintain; however, this may be a safety risk for children and pets.

Basically, there are pros and cons to each type of pump.  Which pump is right for you and your family depends on your needs and your personal concerns.

How to Measure Your Sump Pump Strength

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Homeowner Tips, Sump Pumps.

Not all sump pumps are created equal.  Some are actually stronger than others.  Pump strength is measured by the amount of water that is can push out of a 1 ½ inch PVC discharge line.

Most pumps have a flow chart indicating the Gallons Per Minute (GPM) with the feet of discharge line.  The length or height of discharge line is called head.  10 feet is the average height of discharge line. Most basements have eight foot ceilings and sump pumps are set into the foundation floor about two feet deep. For example the equation “X gpm at 10’ head” means that X gallons can be pumped out of a discharge line 10 feet tall in 1 minute.   The more gallons pumped per minute, the more powerful the pump.

Some manufacturers try to trick homeowners and contractors alike rating their pumps at 0 head. For example: “2000 gpm at 0 head.”  This sounds impressive but doesn’t mean much in a true life application.  There is hardly a real life situation where you would just plug in the pump and not attach a discharge line.

You also have to watch for sump pumps that have high GPM ratings.  If they are pushing out that much water quickly they may be more likely to quit sooner.

Sump pump strength is also measured by the motor’s horse power. Horse power ratings are just like a car engine. Typically, the more horse power the greater the pumping capacity.   Most pumps come in three sizes: 1/3 hp, ½ hp and 1 hp. There are pumps that are less and more, but for residential or commercial applications there are few situations that you would run into a need for a 2, 3, or 1000 HP motor in a sump pump.

No matter what sump pump you select, the BHA recommends installing a back-up pump system to work if the initial pump dies.  It will also extend the lifespan of your whole waterproofing system if you spread the load over multiple pumps.

Professional basement waterproofing companies all over the world sell multiple versions of battery back-up sump pumps and those are typically the better option available on the market.

Tips to Draining a Seriously Flooded Basement

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Flooding, Homeowner Tips.

If your basement is flooded with more than just a couple of inches (we are talking a foot of water, here), don’t be in too big a hurry to pump it out.

Here’s why.

Water in the ground outside your home is pushing hard against the outside of your basement walls. But the water inside your basement is pushing right back.

If you drain your basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pres­sure inside the walls—and that may make the walls and floor crack and collapse, causing serious foundation damage.

To avoid this situation, follow these steps when you pump the water out of your basement:

After floodwaters are no longer on top of the ground, you can start pumping the water out of the basement. Do not use gasoline-powered pumps or gen­erators indoors because gasoline engines create deadly carbon monoxide exhaust fumes. Safety tip: Make sure the electricity to the house is turned off.

Pump the water level down 2 to 3 feet. Mark the level and wait overnight.

Check the water level the next day. If the water went back up, it’s still too early to try to drain the basement. Wait overnight again. Then pump the water down 2 to 3 feet again. Check the level the next day.

 When the water stops going back up, pump down another 2 to 3 feet and wait overnight. Re­peat steps 4 and 5 until all water is pumped out of the basement.

What To Do if My House Floods

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Flooding.

A basement flood is one of a homeowner’s worst nightmares. At the Basement Health Association, we often talk about prevention when it comes to basement flooding. But what if it is too late to talk about waterproofing applications or those waterproofing systems fail in a serious disaster? The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) put together information packet about things to know and what to do if your home floods.

Be Careful Going Inside the First Time

If the door sticks and has to be forced open, it is probably swollen. If it only sticks at the bottom, it can be forced open. If it sticks at the top, your ceiling may be ready to fall. You can force the door open, but wait outside the doorway for a minute where you will be protected if something falls.

If the door won’t open easily, it may be easier for you to enter your home through a window. Look carefully at the ceiling before you go in to be sure it is not ready to fall. Do not smoke or use candles, gas lanterns, or other open flames in your home. Air out your home completely—there may be explosive gas.

Flood and Mud Clean-Up

The mud left behind by floodwaters contains most of the health hazards you will face. It is very important to get rid of the mud as soon as possible. This is a lot easier if it is done before the mud dries out.

Shovel out as much mud as possible. Check your water system for leaks from pipes that may have moved . Even if your water supply is not safe to drink, it can be used for cleaning the home. If you have water, hose the home down, inside and out. If you have an attachment that sprays soap, wash and then rinse the walls and floors. Hose the furniture and other major items that got muddy.

Heating and air conditioning ducts that got flooded will have mud left in them. If you don’t clean them out, your system will be blowing foul, dusty air that contains the same health hazards you are trying to get rid of. To clean the ducts, remove the vents or registers. If possible, remove some sections of the ducts in the basement or crawlspace to give you access to all areas. Then thoroughly hose out all the ducts.

While you hose the walls, thoroughly hose out the electrical outlet, switch boxes, and light sockets that you opened up.

After you hose out the duct work to remove the mud, wash it with a disinfectant or sanitizer.  If your ducts are in a slab or are otherwise inaccessible, have them cleaned by a professional.

Don’t let the water sit on the floor for long, especially if your floor has particle board or other wood product that tends to fall apart when wet. Use a mop, “wet vac,” or squeegee.

Potential Structural Damage

You need to find out whether there is any structural damage to your home. (You will probably need professional help in making this decision. See the Basement Health Pros search engine to find a structural repair contractor in your area.)

Is there evidence of broken or cracked basement or foundation walls? Are there broken pilings, shifted stairs, or slanted floors or walls? Any of these things could mean that the foundation, floors, or walls will have to be totally rebuilt. Repair safety hazards such as broken pilings or an undermined foundation before you proceed any further. Get professional help for any task you cannot confidently do yourself.

You will need a building permit to repair structural damage. Talk to your local building department before you start reconstruction or sign any repair contracts. If the damage to your home’s structure exceeds 50 percent of the market value of your home, most local building codes will require you to elevate it above flood levels. Some may not allow you to rebuild at all.

Use a Dehumidifier

Everything will dry more quickly and clean more easily if you can reduce the humidity in the home.  You can use heavy duty drying equipment and a high powered dehumidifier to reduce the humidity levels in your home.  You will need to properly dry out everything before you start repairing.  If you don’t dry things out properly, you will have a mold problem in the future.

Understanding the Risks of Radon

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Radon.

Radon is a cancer-causing soil gas that can seep into your home through foundation cracks, seams, and gaps in the sump pump or drainage system.

Radon is colorless, odorless and radioactive. It occurs naturally in all soil types from decaying uranium in the soil. Because you can’t smell, see, or taste radon, the only way you know if you have a radon problem is by testing for it.

According to the EPA’s “A Citizen’s Guide to Radon,” nearly 1 in every 15 homes in the U.S. has dangerously high levels of radon.  Elevated levels of radon have been detected in every state.

There are simple do-it-yourself tests you can purchase from home improvement stores or through various websites online.  You can also hire a professional to test your home for radon.  The EPA suggests testing your home every 2-3 years. However, if you do a basement remodel, add an addition, or disrupt the foundation of the house in any way, then you should test your home before and after the work is done.

If you find you have elevated levels of radon, you should have a radon mitigation system installed in your home.

The most common radon mitigation and radon reduction systems suction the air from below the basement floor or slab and pull it up through pipes that release it outside above the home’s roofline.  From there the radon gas dissipates into the air eliminating the risk for the family to breathe it in.

A radon mitigation system must be combined with sealing all foundation cracks and leaks.  The two go hand in hand and are not as effective without the other.

  1. Knows the risks of radon.
  2.  Test your home for radon. Test it every two to three years and before and after a basement remodel or addition.
  3.  Fix any foundation cracks or gaps where soil gases could enter the home. Moisture can also enter your home through foundation cracks that can cause a meridian of other problems.
  4.  If you find you have elevated levels of radon, hire a Basement Health professional to install a radon reduction system.

6 Tips for Healthy Below-Grade Spaces

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Homeowner Tips.

The trick to healthy below-grade spaces is keeping the area dry and free from mold—or anything that may be a food source for mold.

Jeffrey C. May, owner, of May Indoor Air Investigations, LLC., in Tyngboro, MA, agrees with the EPA and the Basement Health Association of how to keep a safe, dry and healthy basement.  He outlined tips for keeping healthy below-grade spaces that coincide with the practices of basement health pros.

Dehumidify your basement

May says high humidity is the leading cause of mold growth in the basement.  Mold and mildew flourish when the relative humidity level is above 80%; therefore all basements—finished or unfinished—should be kept at or below 50% relative humidity. In order to maintain that humidity level, May suggests using a dehumidifier and measure the humidity level often.  He says the humidity level should be measured independent of the dehumidifier.  He suggests using a thermo-hygrometer such as Humidity Alert from Therma-Stor.com/.

A basement exhaust is not a dehumidifier

Sucking the air out of the basement will not maintain the proper humidity levels in the basement. When you pull air out of a basement, it pulls make-up air in either through the exterior or from the upper levels of the house. On a hot and humid day, the air from the house and the outside air will have a high moisture content thus introducing more moisture into the basement through the make-up air.

Keep a finished basement warm in the heating season

Simply put, when air cools, its relative humidity levels increases. The best way to maintain a 50% relative humidity level in your basement is to keep it warm in the heating season.  Most people are prone to turning down the heat in the basement if they are not using it. However, when the air is warming and cooling the air will actually create more moisture that may lead to mold and mildew growth.  May suggests keeping the basement consistently warm at least at 58 to 60 degrees F in the heating season.

Get rid of basement carpeting

There are inherent problems with carpet in the basement.  Carpet captures biodegradable dust and can be a breeding ground for mold.  While a basement should be treated like part of the house, it is not the same as the upper levels of the house.  There are different issues that happen in the basement environment and the same building principles don’t apply the same below-grade.  May recommends tile or vinyl flooring instead of carpet to eliminate the potential problems.

No fiberglass insulation in the crawlspace

Fiberglass insulation doesn’t work very well below-grade.  It is

In an unfinished basement, store belongings properly

A common scene in an unfinished basement is a bunch of cardboard boxes full of seasonal decorations and keepsakes sitting directly on the concrete floor.  Anything biodegradable on the porous concrete floor may lead to mold problems. If there is ever water or moisture problems in the basement these boxes should be off the floor on a metal or plastic shelf.  The shelving should also be at least 18 inches away from the foundation wall and 6 inches off the floor.  If you have to keep cardboard boxes on the floor, May suggests putting down a foil-laminated sheet of polyisocyanurate foam insulation on the floor and up against the wall to protect the boxes from the concrete slab and foundation wall.

Negative Effects on Hardwood Floors

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Home Humidity.

The Basement’s or Crawlspace’s Negative Effects on Hardwood Floors

High humidity levels in basements and crawlspaces may be damaging your hardwood floors.

If you haven’t had a flood and can’t identify a leak dripping onto your hardwood floors, but you still have hardwood floor damage it is most likely moisture problems in the basement or crawlspace.  The most common damage from moisture problems is when the floor is cupping or buckling.

When the edges of the hardwood floor pull up and are higher than the middle of the board, this is called cupping. Cupping happens when there is an imbalance in moisture levels in the room and below the floor in the basement or crawlspace.

Buckling is when the hardwood floor lifts or separates from the subfloor. Hardwood floors buckle when the humidity levels in the lower levels of the house are too high in the crawlspace or basement.

Advanced Energy, an environmental research group based in North Carolina, did the groundbreaking study on closed crawlspaces.  They also found a link between vented crawlspaces and hardwood floor damage on the upper first level of the house. Advanced Energy researchers say in order to understand why wood floors cup and buckle you need to understand the relationship between your floors, your crawlspace and moisture (or relative humidity.)

Through the scientific phenomenon called stack effect, air and moisture in that air moves from the crawlspace to the upper levels of the house. Air is constantly moving in this pattern so it is important to keep the air in the crawlspace dry.

Keeping the crawlspace a dry, conditioned space will also lower heating and cooling bills because the seasonal outside air won’t travel into the upper levels of the house.  Treating the crawlspace like part of the house will make the house more comfortable, lower energy bills, and prevent damage to hardwood floors.

Understanding Sick Building Syndrome

Written by Basement Health Association on . Posted in Indoor Air Quality.

The status of your basement or crawlspace could be making you and your family sick.

The EPA says nearly 50% of indoor air comes from the lower levels of the house.  Think of how a chimney works; this same natural principle happens in our homes.  Pressure naturally pulls air up from the lower levels into the upper levels of the house. This is what they call stake effect.

When the air in the basement or crawlspace is too humid or full of chemical or biological contaminants, it can cause “sick building syndrome.”  This is when stack effect pulls the humid, contaminated air up into the living space and makes the inhabitants sick.

Some symptoms of sick building syndrome include headaches, dizziness, nausea, irritating eyes, nose and throat; a dry cough, dry or itchy skin, difficulty concentrating, fatigue, and sensitivity to odors.

Too much moisture in the basement is one of the main causes of sick building syndrome.  High humidity levels, stagnant water in the basement, or moisture accumulating in ducts, humidifiers and drain pans can be a breeding ground for bacteria, molds, pollen and viruses.

Controlling the moisture in the basement or crawlspace and keeping the relative humidity level at 50% will help control the contaminants that will make it up to the upper levels of the house causing sick building syndrome.

Waterproofers and Basement Health professionals can help keep your indoor air in your home healthy and clean.